Sunday, November 10, 2013

Virginia Rambler: Blink and You'll Miss It

In the late 1800s, the village of Accotink was a thriving northern Virginia hamlet. Situated adjacent to Route 1, Accotink and the nearby Woodlawn area were founded by the growing local Quaker community. The Accotink Mill, a grist mill, was built on the Accotink Creek, probably by Zachariah Gardner after 1804. It was situated on land that is now the lower part of Davison Army Airfield, Accotink village, and the area around Tulley Gate at Fort Belvoir.

Here's an 1857 ad from the Alexandria Gazette, for the land that is now Accotink Village:



Today all that remains of the village is one street, which runs for about two blocks; the rest has been swallowed up by the mammoth Fort Belvoir and the high-volume Route 1 corridor. If you turn onto Backlick Road from Route 1, you'll find what's left of the village. The street boasts some early-20th-century houses and a Methodist church that dates to the late 1800s. But the days are numbered for this quaint little slice of the past; the county has approved the plans to build a mixed apartment/retail complex here (283 multifamily dwellings [read: "apartments"] and 24,825 square feet of "secondary uses"--on land that's currently occupied by just 8 single-family houses). The rest of the street probably won't last long either; the "Statement of Justification" by the developer assures us that "the consolidation and design does not preclude any of the other parcels in the Village of Accotink from redevelopment to their highest and best use." (emphasis added)

Here's a map showing the location of Accotink village. The yellow rectangle shows the entirety of what's left of the village. Note the red oval on the left side of the map. This is more or less the terminus of the old Accotink Road. The train tracks there were part of a spur of the Richmond-Fredericksburg-Potomac Railroad that split off at Long Branch Station and ran to Fort Belvoir (originally Camp A. A. Humphreys). See my blog post Ghost Roads for more about this train route and about Accotink Road.


Because this region was settled in the 1800s, I wonder what artifacts lie beneath the surface in what's left of Accotink village. The 2013 Fairfax County Comprehensive Plan says that "Large portions of the Mount Vernon Planning District have not been surveyed to determine the presence or absence of heritage resources. It is important that these areas be examined before they are developed and appropriate action taken to record, preserve and/or recover the significant resources." I've read almost nothing about this in the plans to repurpose the village of Accotink.


Click on any of the photos to see a larger version.


Accotink United Methodist Church, founded 1880. (This church is a local landmark
as identified on the Fairfax County Inventory of Historic Sites.)

Above and below: interior of the Methodist church. Below, there's an upright piano
 in the foreground and a very old pump organ at rear.
Bell tower. The bell used to call children to the school that once stood next door.

Cemetery at Accotink United Methodist. (For a complete list of graves, see http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gsr&GScid=2182249)

Graves of Jane and John Cawman

Grave of George B. Fairfax, husband of June Fairfax; Fairfax is a 
rather famous surname in these parts. Since this church is on property adjacent to Fort Belvoir, and the army purchased the land for the fort from William Fairfax in 1741, I'd wager that this gent was related to that family. (Note the Confederate flag, a common fixture
at cemeteries in this area.)

Does anyone know what this metal plaque represents?

"In loving remembrance of Ralph A. Stout (Oct. 26, 1898 - June 27, 1911):
A beautiful bud taken from Earth to blossom in heaven."



 And next door to the Methoidst church we have Chua Hoa Nghiem Pagoda: 
Buddhist Association of America, a shiny new addition to the block, circa 2009.



9108 Backlick Road: the house is across the street from the Buddhist Pagoda and
appears to be owned by the same organization; this house was built in 1925.

9121 Backlick Road: the oldest house on the street. It was built in 1900. In the 2011 Fairfax County Comprehensive Plan, they recommended that this house be documented and evaluated for inclusion in the Fairfax Co. Inventory of Historic Sites. It's was foreclosure and was for sale for $239,000. (See http://tinyurl.com/m6nnz53.) UPDATE: It's no longer for sale, and it has new siding; you wouldn't recognize it.

Words fail me.

Ditto.

The same house, from the street view of Google Earth, before it fell on hard times 
(it's now boarded up and the bay window is broken).




This 1903 house is a time capsule; beneath the white siding, there is brick, stone, and wood,
evidence of various owners' efforts to remodel.



Magnus Masonic Lodge, built in 1925. It's at 9012 Backlick Road. The county is looking into the possibility of granting historic status to this structure. The lodge is home to a local chapter of the Ancient Egyptian Arabic Order Nobles Mystic Shrine of North and South America and Its Jurisdictions, Inc. (more commonly known as "Shriners). The Ancient Egyptian Arabic Order is a historically black order of the Shriners, organized in Boston in 1784.

 Maybe if you have to ask, you don't need to know.

Reserved parking for the Elected Imperial Officer

Parking reserved for the Illustrious Potentate

Looking toward the end of the road, which dead-ends at the border of Fort Belvoir
and curves to the left to take you to the Fairfax County Parkway.

Looking toward Route 1

The end of the road: Backlick dead-ends here. The overpass was used as part of a spur that went from the Long Branch station to Fort Belvoir, a story in itself.

Beyond the overpass is a gate to Fort Belvoir; the road used to continue on to Beulah St. here.


The original grist mill, on a survey map made in 1859:


And a look back at the village in 1862:


And the village in its heyday (circa 1900):

The proposed mixed-use development that's going to swallow up a corner of Accotink Village:


The tiny, remaining slice of Accotink Village is virtually surrounded by Fort Belvoir (in fact, its mailing address is Fort Belvoir, Virginia). The families who live on this street have no other neighbors. The children have no one to play with, no nearby parks. This kind of situation is ripe for demolition and replacement by a subdivision or commercial development. I've seen it before--well-kept, tidy homes and mature trees are bulldozed, and residents are displaced. Land in Fairfax County is very dear, and I acknowledge the need to maximize the available space. But there are only so many houses left from the turn of the twentieth century. When all the old houses are gone, it's going to be a long time until there are old houses again. Today, if you blink, you'll miss the village of Accotink. Soon, even if you keep your eyes peeled, it won't be there to see.


Sources:
  • 2011 Fairfax County Comprehensive Plan: http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpz/comprehensiveplan/adoptedtext/2011-04.pdf
  • Zillow.com: http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/9121-Backlick-Rd-Fort-Belvoir-VA-22060/51989590_zpid/
  • Northern Virginia History group on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/groups/199423696893155/)
  • South County Federation Land Use Committee: http://tinyurl.com/nr9oe8r
  • Mills and Mill Sites in Fairfax County, Virginia, and Washington, DC: http://tinyurl.com/nudbxda
  • Belvoir in the Antebellum Period: https://www.belvoir.army.mil/history/Antebellum.asp 
  • Ancient Egyptian Arabic Order Nobles Mystic Shrine of North and South American and Its Jursdictions: http://www.aeaonms.org/ 
  • ANCIENT EGYPTIAN ARABIC ORDER OF NOBLES OF THE MYSTIC SHRINE et al. v. MICHAUX et al.: http://www.law.cornell.edu/supremecourt/text/279/737 
  • "Narrative Statement of Justification for Village of Accotink Mixed-Use Project": http://www.mvcca.org/pz/2012-09_Accotink-SOJ.pdf 
  • Belvoir Enters the Twentieth Century: https://www.belvoir.army.mil/history/20C.asp
  • Realtor's blog: http://activerain.com/blogsview/3378032/village-of-accotink-if-you-blink-you-will-miss-a-piece-of-fairfax-county-history
  • Find a Grave: http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=cr&CRid=2182249
Note: Information in this article is accurate, to the best of my knowledge. Please contact me via the comments if you see any errors or omissions. Thanks!

Copyright 2013. All rights reserved.

6 comments:

  1. Hi and how interesting. I'm Liz Kirchner with Friends of Accotink Creek - always interested in your cultural geography, we've linked to and are agog at your Ghosts of Accotink. In this thoughtful and comprehensive Accotink Village post, I wonder whether you're also doing video and audio interviews? By the way, so charmed by blustery message "Exodus 20:3" reenforced by the Pink Panther, I'd be interested in interviewing the messenger (sort of) Surely, "WWYD" What Would You Do? That sounds friendly....Certainly Ancient Egyptian Arabic Nobles would be interesting to talk to. Could you contact me/Friends of Accotink Creek by Facebook? I'm Liz. Thanks for your work, sensitivity, and insight.

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    1. Thank you, Liz! I haven't done any interviews, but I'd love to. Are you volunteering to assist?

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  2. Hi Doug here from 9026 Backlick..great post. My first experience here with this quaint town was in 1974. Being an Air Force Brat and living in North Springfield at age 11, my parents would take me to Dewitt Army Hospital when I was sick. My head hanging out of the window in our 1965 Ford Galaxie Station Wagon (which I still have!) we would pass the double driveway at 9026 and I would get a total deja vu feeling. I would tell my Mom I wanted to go to that little country church. but she would always say "No, It's to far away." I would threaten to ride my bike there..haha.
    Forward to when I was 16 we would drive to Mamma Muns where the kabob place is now and buy beer there cause she would sell it to us. The house up from the church next to the railroad tressle had an indoor pool and was a big party house, the homeless burnt it down around 1994. On dares we would got to the Ft. Belvoir Grill just up 50 yards from Burger King and drink there. This was a Pagans Motorcycle Club hangout. One night one of their girlfriends was smiling at us and he got up and started over towards us. We guess not to buy us a beer so we slammed down our beer and the door as we ran out of there like scared rabbits.
    Now in the the mid 80's a high school friend bought 9026 and his brother bought the bid red Sears house next door which was condemned . He sold half to another friend when he and his family moved out. I was always going down there looking for them but they never seemed to be at home.The second friend was looking for a room mate so I jumped at the chance. It was like I met them way back when so I could get into this house. Then my buddy got married and they argued so much I couldn't take it so I left papers around that I was looking to buy a house knowing he wanted to move back to his old neighborhood in Lincolnia. So we worked out a deal and I got the house for 150,000. My deja vu became a reality in 1993.

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    1. Doug, thanks so much for sharing your stories--great stuff! I'm so glad it worked out for you to buy your house and that you've been able to do some excavating. I'm envious.

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  3. PartII-
    I have found a brass snuff tin, cork style medicine bottle and many pieces of plate ware. Much china plate I find in the creek as it washes down maybe from Woodlawn. When we dig around here we find a layer of cobblestones everywhere 2-6 inches underground like there was a plaza here at one time. The remnants of the old Accotink Road bridge over mason Run are between mine and the old Sears house. There was an old school crossing sign in the woods behind my house with kids with Bobby Socks on them (which I preserved). There was an old Indian Village on the hill between Canterbury Square Apartments and the Parkway. There is a large clay bank on the Run there also. I have found a large patch of Wild Ginger next to Accotink Creek next to Rt 1 bridge the Natives probably used. It is slated to be wiped out by the new Rt 1 bridge. I have permission from the FHA to remove and transplant it outside of the construction zone. I have found the steel base of the Grist Mill in Accotink creek but is washed in last year by flooding.
    I see you have no words for my "billboard" as my muslim neighbor calls it...lol. A friend gave me that old schoolhouse chalkboard and I put it in the house so the kids could write on it instead of the walls ..haha. I got the idea of putting it outside with Scripture verses on it from people putting them on their car license plates. I do it to get people to open up "The Book" and read a verse or two or more. WWYD stands for "What Would Yahushua Do?" Since the KJV translators messed up there version with total bias.
    We will not be moved here so easily in uptown Accotink. I'm sure they will sick zoning on us like a rabid dog someday. We are to close to Mason Run for anything but townhouses, which is on the County's master plan. The Chesapeake Watershed Act puts them 200 feet away from Mason Run. I'm grandfathered in for what I have. It's like living in the country in the city here, we love it and the history. We are even having a little remorse going with the new development as it is going to take away the character of this place, but if those people were determined to sell, nothing we could do and they got top dollar for what they had.
    There's your interview from 'Mayor' Doug :)

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